 Odessa is a great walking city, so consider exploring the historic Potemkin Steps or wandering about one of its many fine sandy beaches.
Summer in Ukraine wouldn’t be complete without at least one trip south to the Black Sea. Had your fill of Crimea’s seaside villages and want a more urban coastal adventure? Take the night train to the port city of Odessa.
The Perfect Charm
Odessa’s charm comes from its perfect mix of old and new, excitement and relaxation, city and beach. The historic city is connected with writers such as Pushkin and Gogol, and its sycamore tree-lined streets house a variety of crumbling 19th-century architectural gems (the famous Vienna-style Opera House is still being renovated).
But fun in the sun has no better venue than a beach, and Odessa has a long strip of excellent beaches stretching all the way to the southern reaches of the city and boasting a vital feature missing from much of the Crimean coastline: sand. Odessa’s golden sand varies in texture along the stretch, from fine powder to larger granules, but it’s all conducive to taking a relaxing nap in the sun after a dip in the sea.
Before getting to any Odessa beach, you’ll have to traverse a steep hill. Instead of the stairs, take the cable ride at Kanatnaya Doroga. Reminiscent of a ski lift, this device takes two people at a time from Frantzusky to the beach below for a mere Hr 5. More importantly, after a long day at the beach, it makes the return trip a joy.
When in Rome
The jewel of Odessa is Arkadia Beach, a nonstop party locale with restaurants, bars and clubs and, of course, a lovely stretch of sand and sea. Colorful wooden beach chairs line the waterfront, and crowds of bathers can be found enjoying the sunshine after a swim, while fishermen line the pier in hopes of catching something to take home. Join in a pick-up game of volleyball, or marvel at an impromptu gymnastics competition.
Above the beach, the patios of a dozen theme restaurants and bars provide shady spots from which to people-watch and take in the scenery. Sample delicious local seafood or various ethnic cuisines while also enjoying ice-cold beer or cocktails. The best tables are often reserved, but good service and smiles are not uncommon here. After the sun has set the music takes over and the Arkadia strip comes alive with dancing and nightlife, becoming what some call the biggest party in Ukraine.
The Historic Center
Leaving the beach for the city, be sure to visit the Potemkin Steps, the legendary staircase which saw a 1905 battle between mutinying sailors and forces loyal to the Czar. The clash was immortalized in Eisenstein’s 1925 silent film, “Battleship Potemkin.” Take a stroll down the steps, and venture across the street to the long pier to catch a boat cruise, or hike back up for the best workout around.
Odessa’s shady parks and tree-lined streets are perfect for an afternoon stroll. Wander through the park on pedestrian-friendly Deribasovskaya, opposite the Passazh Hotel, which features a bandstand with live music, a host of vendors, and plenty of outdoor bars, restaurants and cafes. Mind your wallet and the pickpockets.
When dining out, try excellent Mexican at Estrellitas, near the Potemkin Steps, which serves up spicy staples such as burritos, quesadillas, soft tacos and, for starters, homemade corn tortilla chips and pico de gallo salsa. Fat Moses, on Ekaterinskaya, has the funkiest upholstery in town on its patio, and serves flavorful light dishes like calamari and Greek salad. While people-watching, sip a refreshing “Moses” lemonade featuring a pineapple ring on top. Also recommended is the Cuban restaurant Fidel’s, and there are great Chinese and European restaurants nearby.
Other Notes
When the sun’s not out, sift through one of Odessa’s nine museums. The Archeology Museum (admission Hr 7) boasts the country’s largest collection of prehistoric, Greco-Roman, and early Slavic relics from the northern coast of the Black Sea. Spend the extra Hr 2 to see the golden artifacts in the basement.
Another diversion is to hire a car and venture outside Odessa to the Catacombs, an underground labyrinth that once sheltered World War II partisans. Bargain hunters should not miss the Seven Kilometer Market, the largest bazaar in the country, accessible from the center by marshrutka or bus.
Hotels abound in the city, and the best way to find one is through www.e-hotels.com.ua, a Web site listing Odessa hotels by city, price and class.
To get to Odessa, there are two overnight trains operating daily from Kyiv. A round-trip ticket in sleeper class costs Hr 116, while first class is just less than twice that at Hr 313. |
